My Top Ten Posts in 2016

In  2016 I widened the scope of my posts from the past.  These were the most popular.

There were still some tragic tales of murder and execution.

One of the many sad events of the 19th century involving poison was the poisoning of baby Charlotte





There were two stories about imprisonment and hanging. One about the Swing riots and the other an 18th century execution for forgery.

Some posts were about other countries reflecting my interest in Portuguese history and also reproducing sections from my mother's diaries from wartime Europe and the Far East.

I discovered more about Philippa of Portugal, mother of Henry the Navigator and daughter of John of Gaunt.











In contrast, my mother's diaries describe her experiences in wartime France and Belgium and living in the Far East in the 1960s

I shared some of my postcard collection of humorous cards in a post on Louis Wain




and photos of Edwardian actresses in a post on Lily Elsie

and showed you some of the fascinating old photographs collected by Lynn Heiden.

Betty's Brussels Diary Part Two 1945 #WWWBlogs

8^th April 1945

Pat and I strolled to Susanne’s house at 11 and she took us into the Catholic church.  We had a huge lunch and then took photos in the garden.  We went to a fete near the Palais de Justice- a new experience for us.  I won a colander and a vase in the raffle.  Had a laugh over the embarrassing communal lavatories.  Went dancing in the evening.

With Susanne's family

17^th April

Sat by the lakes at lunchtime.  The weather was glorious.  Worked till 9 pm.  Pat came back from Susanne’s laden with lilac.  She also brought our photos and 2 eggs for breakfast.

19^th April 1945

My day off apart from Pay Parade.  Tony called for me at 2.30 and we caught the number 80 tram, changed to no. 40 and went to the terminus.  We went to the Congo Museum but it was closed so we walked for miles round the park, woods and lake.  We heard a cuckoo.  Eventually we stopped at a café for lemonade.  Caught a tram back to the boating lake and spent an hour on the lake.  Walked back to Tony’s Mess for a cordial.  I enjoyed the fresh air.

24^th April 1945

Met Tony at 7.30 and took 2 trams, then walked over a bridge which had been blown up by the British and then replaced with a temporary one by Jerry.  We saw the Japanese house and the Chinese one.  They are both magnificent buildings.  Watched people on a roller skating rink.  Went to the Continental for a drink, then collected rhododendrons for the flat.

May 4^th 1945

Busy day at the office.  Did a little sewing then someone came in with the startling news that Jerry had surrendered to the British Army! 

May 7^th 1945 VE Day

I was sitting on the balcony drying my hair when I heard that Jerry had given unconditional surrender.  Went to Pat’s office to hear the 6 o’clock news.  Then we went to the Fair with all the crowd.  We had a grand time laughing our heads off in the White Lodge.  At 10.45 the All Clear sounded.  All the girls hung out of the Billet windows then we went out dancing till 1 o’clock in the morning.

May 9^th 1945

Visited the Botanic Gardens with Tommy and Fay.  Looked round a church then sat in the YW talking for 2 hours.  Moved on to the Malcolm Club where I met Reg.  When Curly arrived we went into the Dance and had something to eat as we were starving.  There was a firework display.

The YWCA formerly occupied by the Gestapo

May 12^th 1945

Had a date with Tommy so I met him at the Metropole.  We went to see Hollywood Canteen which was quite good.  Afterwards we went to the Café Continental. I missed the Shuttle but a tank came along and said, "ATS Taxi Service," so I got back in time.

May 13^th 1945

Pat and I went to church and the service was excellent.  I really enjoyed it.  We stayed at the office till 8 pm.  There was hot water there but none at our billet.  We went to the YW to hear Churchill’s speech which was rather disappointing.  He sounded very tired.

3^rd June 1945

Watched the Corpus Christi Procession go past.  Had a lovely meal at Susanne’s with mushrooms but I was really ill afterwards.

6^th June 1945

An extra day off for one year after D Day.  Went to ENSA cinema to see "Ali Baba"- a film in colour.  Went on the boating lake.

9^th June 1945

Rose at 4 to move my kit to room 10.  It was awful saying Goodbye to Pat as she is moving to Germany today.

25^th June 1945

Caught a train to Antwerp.  Had to pay our fares.  Not free like Brussels.

27^th June 1945

Margaret moved to Germany today.  Staff took me to the flicks to see Clark Gable in "Too Hot to Handle."

28^th June 1945

Madame Toussaint called to see me and ask me to her home this evening.  We had coffee and cakes and then her husband returned from Paris.  (Winnie Toussaint befriended Betty when her friends had left.  Betty continued to write to Winnie until the late 1960s)

Winnie and Betty

2^nd July 1945

Winnie Toussaint came to the flicks (cinema) with me and then we met her husband in a café for cakes, ice-cream and strawberries.

5^th July 1945

Working late most evenings.  Jack produced some cherry brandy at 8 pm.  We had supper at the Y and the 3 men kept talking politics.  Jack and I walked round the lakes before returning to our billets.  We stood for ages watching the fish and the frogs.

20^th July 1945

Jack called for me at the office tonight.  We took a tram to the terminus.  The weather was beautiful.  I discarded stockings and hat and we scrambled amongst the brambles and the bracken.  I felt really free again.  We did quite a bit of walking then had lemonade at a café and sat talking.

5^th August 1945

Packed up my things and dumped them at the office.  Wingy laid on a taxi for me.  Left at 12.  Had a pleasant flight.  Watched England appear from the pilot’s seat.  It was lovely.  Had the usual rigmarole to go through.  Went to Euston & wangled a Sleeper.  Went out to visit Staff’s wife.  She had a bath and a meal ready for me.

7^th August 1945

I went to Dumbarton and called in to see my aunt and uncle.  Came back via Balloch.  It was lovely driving up the loch in the half dark.  The lights of Greenock, Gourock and Port Glasgow looked wonderful from above Helensburgh. (The first time she had seen lights at night there since before the war)

13^th August 1945

I went to Balloch with my brothers for the meeting of the young farmers’ club.  Someone from the newspaper took my photograph while I was judging the sheep.

Betty at YFC meeting at Balloch from the newspaper

24^th August 1945

I was walking along Avenue Louise today when a lad called out to me and handed me my photo taken from the Evening News.

30^th August 1945

Rose at 6 am and caught the 7 o’clock train to Blankenberge, Winnie Toussaint met me at the station.  When I reached the hotel I found I left my shoulder bag on the train but I got it back from Bruges through the RTO.  (Railway Transport Office).  We went to a café and met some of their friends.  It poured most of the day but we still walked along the front and down the pier.  I enjoyed the sea breeze once the sun came out and we stayed on the beach taking photos.

The Toussaint family at Blankenberge

4^th September 1945

Staff returned from his trip to Herford (Germany) – says we will go there soon.  Visited Winnie & we sat in the garden till it was dark.  Left at 10 to catch the tram.

8^th September 1945 My birthday (23) The Victory Ball

We went down to the Opera House in our tartan skirts this morning- caused quite a sensation along the street.  Last rehearsal for the Victory Ball and then we met the men in the dressing room at 12 and had champagne which was very good.  I met a very nice  Captain and sat nattering to him from 1 till 2 when we went on stage.  Our dance went off well.  We had some more champagne then joined the Ball.  I had to suffer Major D for a bit.  Danced out in the Square too.  Managed to ditch him and find my hero again who was a wonderful dancer.  I could have gone on and on dancing with him.  I was annoyed when the transport arrived at 5.15.  Said farewell and then back to the billet.

Later that month, Betty’s office moved to Herford in Germany

Betty's diary for June 1944
Betty in Brussels part one

Betty in Brussels 1944-45 #WW2 #MondayBlogs

Part One

3^rd October 1944

Pat and I rose at 6.30 and set out for a walk.  It was glorious at that time of the morning.  Saw the Palais de Justice and the Tomb of the Unknown Warrior.  Felt really refreshed when we reached the office.  Lunch at a café, lovely to have fresh fruit.  Worked till 8.  Cleaned my buttons and wrote letters.  Lights out by 10.15 or we are in trouble.

5^th October 1944

Dolled ourselves up in brass buttons and went down town tonight.  Visited Capitole and Metropole Cafés and had lovely ice-cream.  Listened to the band and watched an unusual dance by five men dressed in funny costumes with large ostrich-feather hats.

7^th October 1944

Shopping with Pat & Hazel.  Wonderful to see shops so well stocked with goods.  Had our photos taken and then had meringues & ice-cream.  What a selection of cosmetics and perfume!  We couldn’t buy anything as they were unable to change a hundred Franc note.  After tea we took the tram to the Garrison theatre to see Richard Green in “Arms and the Man.”  We were supplied with ices and chocolate by the fellows sitting beside us.

22^nd October 1944

Pat and I went down to the YWCA tonight and met Hazel.  It’s lovely there, comfy chairs, cosy little rooms & tea brought to you.  We did some sewing and chatted till 9.30 then caught the tram back to the billet.

Pat, John and Betty

28^th October 1944

Rushed off from the office at 6.30 and went to the ENSA theatre.  Monty (Field-Marshall Montgomery) was there and we had also seen him during the afternoon at the office.  On stage we saw Emlyn Williams in Blithe Spirit.  It was awfully good.  I did enjoy the cracks.  Went to the Bristol Café for ices then caught truck back to the billet.

13^th November 1944

Rose early & gave our room a decent clean for Inspection.  Had a letter from Jenny to say that Bill had been reported missing.  Went to flicks with Susanne, Theo, Bob and George (locals who lived in Brussels.)  Had to leave early to get back in time.  Will have to watch my step with George.  He wants to get too friendly for my liking.

Pat & Betty with Bob & Susanne

25^th November 1944

Had to see the Camp Commander today to be told I’m receiving my Corporal’s stripe.  Went shopping & bought a pen for Dad & stockings for Mum.  Wrapped them up for Christmas.

30^th November 1944

Pat & I met Susanne, Theo and George at the Capitole to listen to the band.  Gave George the cold shoulder.  Caught the tram back.

1^st December 1944

Had to sew the stripe on my tunic before going out.   Pat & I went to ENSA theatre to see “A soldier for Christmas.”  It was very amusing but a bit suggestive.  Nattered to some sergeants we were sitting beside.

1^st January 1945

Edward brought Fay & I back from the Hogmanay party at 1 am.  Stayed in bed till early afternoon then called in at the office to wish them a happy new year.  Went to the Monty Club (Montgomery Club) for tea.  Had our photos taken by some fellows.  Went to the ENSA theatre where 2 sergeants had double tickets so we went in with them.  “The Merry Widow most enjoyable. Caught the truck back.

2^nd January 1945

Went to Susanne’s house for dinner.  Quite a crowd there.  Roads very slippery on the way back.  Had to be careful carrying a bowl of baked apples.

Looking out of the Office window on Avenue Louise

8^th January 1945

Day off so we went on a trip to Ostend by bus.  Thick snow when we left so everything looked very picturesque clothed in white.  Countryside quite pretty, windmills unusual (to us).  We stopped at Ghent & went to the NAAFI for tea.  The town is full of ancient buildings.  When we reached Ostend it was raining and terribly blowy.  The hotels at the seafront were badly battered.  Very cold in the bus even with a blanket round us.  Managed to reach the YWCA by 8.30 for supper.

January 19^th 1945

Really freezing in the flat.  Went to Susanne’s house for dinner and we were covered in snow when we arrived.  Had to rush back to the billet early as I had to take roll call.

January 25^th 1945

Bought an electric fire today but it doesn’t work.  Went to bed early with a blanket round my shoulders to write letters home.

1^st February 1945

Walked to Porte de Namur by way of the lakes which are lovely.  Called at the lace shop to buy some.  Set out for Waterloo but had a very long wait for the train.  Got out at the village but it was miles from the battlefield.  Hitched a ride with a Sergeant Major, then he took us for a drink.  Climbed to the top of the column and saw the Panorama in the Rotunda.  Hitched back to Brussels and went to the Blighty Café.

3^rd February 1945

I was orderly NCO tonight.  Did some mending in the Guardroom.  CSM was duty officer & was on her high horse so I had to take the names of those who were only a little late.

6^th February 1945

Di and I went out to Concordia for our evening meal then to Maxims where we were joined by a RAF officer.  I nearly died when a Canadian corporal started to make me jitterbug.  Caught the shuttle back to the billet.

 8^th February 1945

Left work early & went to the Monty Club for a bath.  I did some pressing until Pat arrived then we went upstairs for supper.  Changed some money at the Hotel Splendide.

10^th February 1945 

Flew from Neuville aerodrome.  Thrilling flying into England (my first flight).  Pat’s mother met me at Euston & then I boarded the train for Glasgow.  Travelled in a first class carriage with 2 companions.  Arrived at 9 am but could only get a train as far as Dumbarton where I hitched a lift home in time for lunch.

20^th February 1945

Reported for my flight back to Brussels at 8 am but there was no room for us.  Met Moyra and she took me to meet some of her blind patients at Roehampton hospital.  A very interesting experience for me.

21^st February 1946

Flew back from Northolt to Neuville.  A truck drove us to the Hotel Splendide and then a driver took me the rest of the way to my billet.  Went to the ENSA theatre to see Stewart Granger and Deborah Kerr.  Glad to be back.

29^th February 1945

Met Ian at Porte Louise and we went to the Follies Bergère.  Although we didn’t understand what they said we were still in stitches laughing.  A couple of drinks at the Palace and then walked back by the lakes.

"The Office" ST Increment Demand Section

11^th March 1945

Staff (Staff sergeant in the office) took us to the flicks to see Rebecca.  Very good but had to stand throughout the whole film.  Our feet were in a terrible state.  We practically crawled to Porte Louise & hitched a lift from there in time for me to take roll call.

27^th March 1945

We moved out of the flat for 4 into a flat for 3.  The poor new girls were shocked when we took all our odds and ends with us, since they had given the old room a homely atmosphere.  I bought some brackets to put up shelves in the new room, covered them with pink material and added a frill.  Visited Susanne’s home to pick up the dress she has made me and she also gave me 2 fresh eggs for our breakfast.

Brussels part two follows here

Betty's War #WW2 1944

Betty

Betty was born in 1922, in a croft on the Gareloch in Scotland.  She had two brothers, one older and one younger.  Her father, Alec, was 30 and her mother, Lizzie, was 22.  There was no electricity or gas at the croft and Alec worked long hours every day on his uncle’s farm.  When Betty was 4 they moved to the farm where she and her brothers grew up doing their chores, like collecting eggs and calling in the cows for milking.

Doing well at school, especially at maths, Betty left after completing her Highers, age 17.  She found employment at the Clydesdale bank but she had to help milking the cows every morning before running down to catch the bus into town.  War with Germany had been declared in Britain six days before Betty’s 17th birthday.  In September 1942 she would become eligible for conscription and she feared that she would be assigned to the Land Army, working on someone else’s farm, so to avoid that, she volunteered to join the Auxiliary Territorial Service (ATS).

Leading up to D Day on June 6th 1944, Betty worked on supplies for the Normandy invasion, Operation Overlord, although she had no idea whereabouts in France it would be, or the specific date.  In August, she and her colleagues set off from Portsmouth to Arromanche.  She was part of the vast 21st Army Group, established in London during July 1943.

After she died in 2010 I found many years of diaries written in tiny untidy writing and gradually I have transcribed some of them.  These are some of her entries for the period around D-day leading up to her journey first to France and then on to Brussels and Germany.

These first entries were while she was billeted at Oxted, Surrey.

Elizabeth

Greta

4^th June 1944

Went to Church of Scotland service in the chapel at St Paul’s Cathedral.  Met Elizabeth and Ana and sat in St James’s park.  Visited Westminster Abbey and Westminster Cathedral.  Met Mary, Greta & Greta’s boyfriend.

Like many in the forces, Betty knew invasion was imminent as her work involved supplies.

6^th June 1944 (D-Day)

Couldn’t sleep for the noise of planes in the early hours.  Waited expectantly for news.  D-Day things went very well.  Heard the King’s speech in WVS club lounge.  Rang Greta & Elizabeth.

8^th June 1944

Went to concert in Assembly Hall at Charing Cross.  Looked after a poor Canadian on the train on the way back & was touched when he held my hand wishing me luck.

9^th June 1944

David Niven “The Way Ahead” & newsreel of the Invasion.

11th June 1944

We have a new SSM, very pernickety, we will have to watch our steps

12^th June 1944

"Gone with the Wind" for the 2^nd time.

On 13^th June the first V1 flying bombs, often called doodlebugs in Britain, were launched from Calais over south-east England. 

15^th June 1944

Sirens and gunfire.  Pilotless planes (V1) above.  Very tired in morning.

16^th June 1944

Reached West Kensington and the siren went off.  During the night had to go to the Shelter- hardly slept again.

17^th June 1944

Bought some cornflowers to brighten up the bedroom- had to bargain for a good price.  Saw "Fanny by Gaslight" (Stewart Granger & Phyllis Calvert). Siren & guns kept us awake but we didn’t get out of bed -3^rd night no sleep.

18^th June 1944

Pilotless plane came down 50 yards from our billet- shook us up. Slept together in the Recreation Room.

19^th June 1944

More explosions. First aid lecture boring so I darned my stockings.

20^th June 1944

Spent most of the day in the office calling out figures as usual.  Fed up with sleeping in Rec. Room.

22^nd June 1944

Went to visit friends in Purley (Surrey).  Glorious walk along avenue of Lombardy Poplars and then Rose Avenue.  Wild flowers and gardens so beautiful.  Spent the night in the Shelter.

Saturday 24^th June 1944

PT this morning which nearly killed me.  Busy at the office but left at 5.30.  Came up to Kensington, walked up Notting hill & through Holland Park.

Sunday 23^rd June

Worked till 4 pm then went up to Victoria & sat in St James’s Park.  Walked along Embankment, past Big Ben to Trafalgar Square & then Piccadilly.

In July, Betty was posted to Wentworth, near Virginia Water, but she had volunteered to work overseas, as women were not sent abroad if they didn’t volunteer.

Betty on far left

11^th August 1944

Rose at 2 am to pick up my Kit and board the truck. 

Mulberry Harbour at Arromanche

12^th August 1944

Arrived in Arromanches on board an LST (Tank, Landing Ship) which took us to shore.  Beautiful sunset- ships silhouetted against it. Men cheered us as we travelled in the truck to our camp.

13^th August 1944

Sunbathed.  Tea on Tommy Cookers.  Walked into Bayeux with Hazel.  Beautiful architecture

14^th August 1944

Office till 8.30.  Found a tent with a wireless so we listened to the news.

15^th August 1944

Finding it rather strange under canvas, everything so damp.

The office at Vaucelles near Bayeux

 18^th August 1944

Browned off with such long hours in office & no time to read, sew or write.

22^nd August 1944

Mobile baths a good laugh.

23^rd August 1944

Bayeux festooned with flags to celebrate the Freedom of Paris.

26^th August 1944

ENSA show Kay Cavendish, Florence Desmond, Sandy Powell and Flannigan & Allen.

8^th September 1944

My birthday (22) Day off with Pat & Hazel.  Met 3 fellows in the afternoon & hitched into Bayeux.  Got into the theatre for an amusing ENSA show, autograph from Alice Delysia.  Wandered round the cathedral.  Found a hotel where we were able to get dinner.  I must hand it to the French, they know how to cook meat.  Didn’t think much of their Calvados.  Walked back to Billet by 9.  Had tea & biscuits at NAAFI.

In September, Brussels was liberated and many of the ATS were posted to HQ 21^st army group.

Caen September 1944

29^th September 1944

Reveille at 4.30 am.  Quick breakfast & on lorries by 6.30.  A bumpy journey which made me feel sick.  Passed through Caen & Rouen.  Saw some awful sights on the way.  Night in hostel at Amiens.

30^th September 1944

Left at 8 am and arrived in Brussels at 5 pm.  We are so impressed by our block of flats.  Luxury after tent life.  After tea we settled into life in Avenue Louise.  There is a marvellous view from the balcony overlooking the whole city.  Wonderful by moonlight.

Sunday 1^st October 1944

Trotted along the Avenue to the office at 10.  It is lovely, just like a Civie (Civilian) one.  The chestnut trees in the Avenue are wonderful.  Our Mess is in a school, polished tables and panelled walls.  It all seems too good to be true.

This was to be the best part of her time in the ATS.

To read more  about Betty's time in Brussels

Cambodia in 1969 #AngkorWat

Another instalment  from my mother's Far East diary:-

In March 1969, after a week’s holiday with Thai friends in Bangkok, my parents set out for a few days’ visit to Cambodia.  They found Phnom Penh, the capital, a contrasting mixture of wide boulevards and narrow grubby roads.  After a hot stuffy night in Hotel Sukalay they set out for Siem Reap so that they could see the twelfth century temples in the ancient capital of Angkor.

Tuesday March 11^th 1969

We caught a cyclo-pousse to the centre of the city, where we were able to share a pick up taxi to take us to Siem Reap.  We were packed in tight with the locals in a Peugeot with 3 rows of seats.  Soon we were passing through flat, dry countryside sprinkled with wild lotus flowers.  The houses reminded us of those in Malaya as they are also on stilts, but they lack colour and have no plants in their yards.   We met strings of 4 to 6 bullock carts jammed full of clay pots and saw quite a few cows and water buffalos.  Occasionally there was a pony drawing a cart.

While we waited at Kampong Luong for a ferry across the river, we stopped at a food market where small children pestered us to buy drinks.   The long straight road continued with many dogs wandering in front of our taxi, so the driver constantly sounded his horn until we stopped at Kampong Thom for a cold drink.  We passed jeep style taxis, cyclo-pousses and buses.  As the rice had been harvested the fields were just dry stubble.  Reaching Siem Reap we changed into a motorcycle pousse for the last 7 km to the Auberge Royal des Temples.  The hotel is right opposite Angkor Wat, across the bridge over the “moat”.  There were a few buffalo in the water with ibises sitting on their backs.

Angkor Wat was dedicated to Vishnu when it was constructed in the 12^th century.  Many of the carvings are of the beautiful “Apsaras” (Concubines who became goddesses) who hold you with their charm and serene smiles.  The carving on the stone walls is magnificent with so many details and a great many steps to climb!  The buddhas are in varying stages of decay, some having been broken while excavated.  Picture stories are told all along the cloisters.  Once each temple had a library, but all the books were left to rot.  We walked over to where a modern temple stood amongst many Stupas.  Here there was a procession of people under large round umbrellas.  Children were everywhere selling temple rubbings and ivory cow bells.

After dinner we returned to Angkor Wat which looked marvellous in floodlight.  Classical dancing was being performed on the esplanade, which was just the right setting, as the dancers emerged from the archway with the towering buildings outlined against the sky.  The dancers dress was similar to that of Thai dancers but the music completely different.  In their welcome dance they threw flowers at the audience.  Two young boys were dressed as monkey gods, one black and one white.  In their dance they fought in bare feet.  The farewell dance used fans which was a colourful finale.

Wednesday March 12^th 1969

We rose early to catch the coach to visit Angkor Thom (Great City), the last capital of the Khymer empire.  There we viewed Bayon temple, the best we’ve seen.  The bas relief friezes depict scenes from the past showing the Khymers with their elongated ears (a sign of long life).  Also shown are battle scenes where the soldiers rode elephants and the king rode a horse.  There are carvings of dancers and fishing boats surrounded by crocodiles.  Bullock carts are depicted laden with women and chickens and other food supplies.  The original grey stone had been painted red but as this wore off, lichen and moss have coloured it yellow.  The towers bore large faces on all 4 sides.

Angkor Thom is surrounded by a wall 16 kilometres long with Bayon at its centre.  A Buddhist sanctuary, people believed the temples to be the home of the gods.  On each side of the gate entrance are 7 headed Naga sculptures.  Resembling cobra heads they represent the seven races and have a symbolic association with the seven colours of the rainbow.  As we passed under the arch, we heard a scuffle, a squeak and then plonk on the ground behind me was a long thin green snake with a bat in its mouth.  I was just focusing my camera to take a photo when it suddenly started moving nearer to me so I sloped off mighty quick!

Later we walked along elephant terrace, a long wall with carved elephants all along it.  In the past kings sat above while the dancers emerged from the houses opposite to perform for them.  Sometimes the dancers performed on ropes stretched between the houses which were three storey towers.

We walked through the woods until we reached the King’s Temple.  Golden Buddhas were known to have been here but were stolen, in time of war.  Further on, is the King’s swimming pool with terraced steps like an amphitheatre.  There is an adjoining children’s pool.  They are still excavating the terrace of the Leper King.  A replica of his statue is there while the original is in the museum at Phnom Penh.  In the afternoon we went to the Petit Circuit which shows how they found the temples with vines growing out of the ruins.  Rainforest trees with wide fin-like bases were everywhere.

Thursday March 13^th 1969

We left Siem Reap before 7 am sharing a taxi to Phnom Penh with a student called Sebastian Tombs.  It started to rain which is almost unheard of at this time of year.  A lorry splashed so much mud on the windscreen that the driver, who was the same one who had driven us to Siem Reap, had to find a puddle to clean it off.  We enjoyed seeing an elephant working in a field and also a large, reddish, weasel like animal on the road with a pointed face and thick tail. (It might have been the rare yellow-bellied weasel)

We saw many priests in their saffron robes standing at the roadside with their bowls, waiting to be given food.  Local women carried flat baskets on their heads containing dried fish and smoked ducks which they were selling by the ferry.

Friday March 14^th 1969 

This morning we saw more of Phnom Penh.  First port of call was the small fruit and flower market which seemed more expensive than Bangkok.  The railway station is clean and pleasant with a Stupa at the front containing the ashes of a Buddha.  Walking through the Chinese area we reached Wat Phnom at the top of a small hillock.  Next we saw Wat Botum Vaddei monastery with its many Stupas.  The museum was built of red sandstone and contained ancient jewellery as well as the original statue of the leper king.

The Royal Palace is similar in architecture to the King’s Palace in Bangkok.  The Coronation Hall contains two thrones for the king and Queen.  There are also gold coloured upholstered chairs in a circle for the Royal family to hold conferences.  The Sacred room contains the robes and head-dresses for ceremonies.  There are fabulous pieces of valuable jewellery which had belonged to Napoleon III including a huge diamond and many rubies and emeralds.

On a boulevard we saw the wreck of an American plane which had been shot down on the border of Vietnam.  We briefly saw the magnificent cathedral before heading for the airport.  We were home in Singapore by 11 pm where our dog, Sherry gave us a great welcome.

Four days later on March 18^th 1969, US  B-52 bombers began attacking suspected camps in Cambodia for the first time.  Over the next few years the Khymer Rouge lead by Pol Pot fought a brutal civil war which he won in 1975.

A visit to #Chinatown in Singapore during October 1966

In 1966, my family arrived in Singapore to live there for 3 years.  My mother kept a diary and this is her description of a night tour of Chinatown:-

We met Mr Lim and the rest of our party at the Raffles Hotel at 7.30 pm.  Using his microphone to keep our attention, he walked us to the bus stop to catch the number 11 bus to Sri Mariamman Indian Temple, the only part of the square mile which isn’t Chinese.  The sculptured figures on the building were wonderful.  Inside they were starting the celebrations for Deepavali (divali). On November 11^th, four British soldiers will join the devotees to walk across hot coals.  Burnt feet will reveal whether they are sinners.

The inside of the temple was beautifully decorated with coloured streamers like Christmas paper decorations and we listened to the chanting.  In the courtyard, various altars are set up, including one which is the head of a man.  The story goes that a king would not give his people their freedom, even in spite of his son’s pleas, so the boy, the king’s only son, cut off his own head and in a sign of repentance the King gave the people their freedom.  Another altar is for baptism.  They say that the child is given to the temple to keep for one month and then redeemed for money, but in fact only the child’s soul is left at the temple.  This would guarantee that if he died young his soul would go to heaven.  There is a huge tree where other altars are set up with burning lamps.  If you walk around the tree three times and say a prayer you should have good luck.  In Penang a similar tree was cut down and the area was flooded for a month.

Next we wandered along the grubby Chinese streets, lined with food stalls.  Each different Chinese group (Cantonese, Hokkien, Hakka) keep to their own area.  One large building, originally built by the Portuguese, houses over 1000 people.  It is split into tiny cubicles for each family, the children sleeping under the bed.  One tap and toilet is shared by many families and there is nowhere to cook, hence the reason for so many roadside food stalls.  All kinds of food are available, including monkey soup or monkey brains to make you strong, or frog to improve your eyesight.   There are tiny cages of rabbits, guinea pigs, iguanas, snakes, duck, chickens etc.  One delicacy we were offered was a hundred-year-old egg from a jar.  If anyone was pregnant and wanted twins, then eating two was recommended.  Also hanging on the stalls were smoked pork, sausages, entrails and pigs’ ears.

Century eggs or thousand year eggs are a great Chinese delicacy. Traditionally the eggs were pickled in brine, and then buried in a mixture of coals, chalk, mud and alkaline clay. Although no recipes keep the eggs for a hundred or even a thousand years, the curing salts do mean that the egg is preserved for many months, without need for refrigeration. The century eggs have a translucent, jelly-like, greenish-black egg-white, and a deep blue yolk, with a slightly cheesy, fermented flavour. The outside of the white sometimes develops a stunning pattern, reminiscent of snowflakes or the branches of a pine tree, which gives rise to one of the egg's Chinese names - songhua dan, or pine-patterned egg. 

In the People’s Market anyone can set up a stall, if there is a space, and for one month pay no rent, rates or tax.  Clothes, shoes, fabric and toys are displayed for sale all night.  This is similar to the Amah’s Markets which are set up in the streets around Singapore in different places most evenings.

Above some of the shophouses live the Concrete Nannies (Samsui Women).  They do hard labouring on building sites for very little pay, wearing blue samfoo (blouse and trousers) and large red hats of starched cloth, not unlike an upturned nun’s hat.  They rarely marry but sometimes adopt children.

As of 2014, there are only two Samsui women known to be living in Singapore.  Samsui women wore a red, or sometimes blue, headdress that became their trademark feature. The headdress was a square piece of cloth starched stiff and folded into a square-shaped hat. The colour red was used because it was eye-catching and thus reduced the chances of accidents occurring at the construction site. Besides sheltering the women from the sun, the hat was also used to store items such as cigarettes, matches and money. In the end they would chat to each other along the five-foot-way corridors outside the shophouses.

It is certainly an eye opener to see how they live in Chinatown.  The squalor and overcrowding has to be seen to be believed.  In Sago Lane we peeped into Opium dens, where tiered bunks were filled by old men who could pay a dollar for a pipe and a dream.  Many have been shut down by the government but some remain to cater for the few who are beyond hope and can’t live without it.

Also in Sago Lane are the Death houses.  In the upstairs part of the houses are clinics for the very old and chronically sick to come to die.  They fear post-mortems if they die in a hospital and dying at home brings bad luck to their family.  Downstairs, the deceased lie in state with photographs, fruit and flowers.  The chief mourners wear sackcloth over their heads and bodies, while others sit at tables on the street, drinking.  The wreaths are on stands outside, huge ones of orchids, tuber rose heads etc.  In nearby shophouses, paper models are made, of houses, cars, boats etc to be burned after the funeral to ensure the deceased will have use of them in the next life.   Imitation paper money in abundance is also burned so that they can bribe themselves out of Hell.  The funeral for anyone over 60 is a celebration and there are Chinese lanterns bearing their age in characters.

In another street they were still celebrating 5 days after a funeral.  Five priests dressed in yellow or red robes with black mortarboard style hats were dancing frenetically around a small fire.  In a woodcarver’s shop, temple ornaments were being carved from blocks of sandalwood and then ornamented with gold leaf.

Mr Lim lead us uphill to Millionaires’ Club where 24 millionaires live.  Here could be found professional letter writers sitting at tables by the side of the road.  Everywhere Mr Lim just held up his hand and walked in front of the traffic expecting it to stop.  A memorable evening.

 Betty Ware

For more about the contribution made by the Samsui women to modern Singapore Tribute